Some Things Never Change...

North Beach, Chinatown, Fisherman's Wharf -- and yes, even the sidewalk flower vendors downtown are as old as the City itself, it seems. Timeless. Others -- such as the financial district and South of Market, are all but unrecognizable to me.

When I first moved to San Francisco around 1968, I worked in this northwest corner of the Alcoa Building, on the 22nd floor (there are 25). Along with the new Embarcadero One next door, we were the only new skyscrapers in the district, and quite the tallest. We literally watched the Pyramid rise, from a deep hole in the ground to the final pinnacle. The big black Bank of America tower came along around the same time, perhaps a bit later. Memory fades. More Embarcadero Center towers, more of everything, until now we have this.

The Alcoa Building is so small, so surrounded by larger buildings, it's barely noticeable. Look on the left, a splotch of black with a taller building behind it, lower ones around. The Bank of America building is the one on the right -- much of its height comes from it's location on the hill, but it made quite a splash when it opened.

Naturally, the street grid hasn't changed so while there are all these new buildings, I had no trouble finding my way around. As with all else I've encountered, I felt right at home.

Even after all these years, I find the Pyramid fascinating -- including this fabulous base. It's a wonderful landmark.

I was so glad to stumble across this bronze sculpture of laughing children in a tiny park next to the Pyramid -- I've seen a photo of it, but didn't know where it was. Isn't it charming?

I wandered through the area, down to the Ferry Terminal and then down Market Street in search of the MOMA. I knew about where it was and of course, refused to pull out my map and thus identify myself as a tourist. When I eventually found it, I learned that it is closed on Wednesdays! I was so devastated -- had I known, I could have easily done this any other day. Now, it's too late. O'Keefe, Adams, Avedon -- alas! I don't mind missing more traditional art, but photographs are my thing and O'Keefe, of course, is fabulous.

Thus deflated, I continued to wander South of Market to Dave and Karen's office at 2nd and Brannon. By the time I reached it, I'd walked about 2 hours. A quick tour of their offices, a little conversation, and off I was once more. Dave's secretary, who'd wanted to meet me, had been delayed at a doctor appointment so I missed her. South of Market is more noticeably changed than the Financial District, in ways. Not so many big buildings, but quite a few of them, including the MOMA. The best part is that it's not nearly as seedy as it has been traditionally. The Moscone Center is down here, as is the new Giants ballpark and much, much more.

For some reason I felt a need to walk through Union Square and the shopping district, although that was a fairly quick tour and I felt no urge to go inside any of those fabulous stores. By now, I was getting pretty tired plus it was about lunchtime. I had no more 'must do' food stops and I had to laugh at how suddenly cheap I became regarding lunch. I didn't care what the others cost -- but when it was 'just food', I cared. I walked back through Chinatown and into North Beach, where I finally stopped at a small Italian deli, where the wonderful, warm-hearted Italian men made me a half sandwich -- roasted red peppers, cheese, spicy meats and I don't know what else, on Ciabatta bread. I couldn't have eaten a whole one, but I needed sustenance to attack the hill once more plus there was no food at the studio. By now, I'd walked about 4 hours and the old body was feeling it. Once more, I spent the afternoon collapsed and recouping from my exertions. I'm still not as young as I used to be, but I'm doing OK.

Thank goodness the next few days will be restful -- no marathon walks, no hills to climb. I'll drive off toward Napa later this morning. AFTER I climb that hill once more!