Newport -- a day of escape

As an antidote to finally having the tension and nastiness of the election behind us, my friend and I drove to the coast yesterday, to feed our souls with nature. Fortunately, we were met with a lovely day -- nice combinations of wispy fogs and sunshine, mild temps, no wind.

Our destination was Newport, about a two hour drive from Eugene but well worth it. Northwest across country, through Corvallis, across the Coast mountain range, to this. We sat on a bench right here for awhile just to soak it all in. The photo does not do justice to the rows of white breakers as far as the eye could see, from left to right.

After soaking this all end, we went on to Nye Beach, home of the Sylvia Beach Hotel, among other things, and a wonderful Irish Pub called Nana's. True Irish food, and while I was tempted to try the bangers & mash, since I've never had that, I have a hard time resisting fish & chips. Made with local cod, beer-battered and fried to a perfect crispness outside and perfect moistness inside, I stuffed my face! Even had a nice Rogue beer to go with it.  We ended the visit with the Sylvia Beach, just to be able to 'touch home' as my friend said. Unfortunately, there was some kind of private event happening and we were unable to walk through and look at the rooms, but we did visit the gift shop. The rooms, by the way, are fantastical interpretations of various authors and almost all of them have changed since I was last there, in 2009.  Google it, and you'll see what I mean.

Then, still not ready to leave, we drove down to the harbor area and 'old town'. Newport was actually the very first place I ever stayed overnight in Oregon, way back in 1996 when I meandered up the coast from California and fell in love with this state. On that visit I stayed at a cheap motel on the highway, but was pointed down to old town as a place to eat and sightsee. I had beer and some forgotten food at a great old tavern/saloon/pub. Old town to me is a fabulous mix of working fisheries along the water side, old waterside-type bars and restaurants, and newer restaurants and other commercial spots that attract tourists.  I had a field day with the camera along the harbor, as you will see. The lighting was interesting and I wanted that beautiful bridge in the background. These photos are all mostly black and white, even though shot in full color. As usual, the photos are not manipulated by me in any way. They appear just as the camera captured them, for better or worse.

From here, we returned to Eugene down the coast to Florence, then headed inland once again, our moods lightened, our hearts fuller our souls filled.

A nice day trip to the coast

A webcam on the coast showed bright, clear sunshine this morning, so we opted to drive over. Unfortunately for the sun aspect, we went south and the sun stayed further north. But, that's ok. We traveled along the Umpqua River Road, which is so scenic, and of course the coast is always beautiful, rain, clouds or sunshine.

I'd run a quick check on fish and chip places in Winchester Bay, where we were headed, and found this sweet little place on TripAdvisor that's actually a floating houseboat, with 4 tables inside. More outside and even a couple of auxiliary buildings with tables, although none of those were in use today since it's not exactly high season for tourism. I loved the atmosphere, the food was super. We both had plates for 'people with smaller appetites' (I was trying to somewhat stay with my calorie count), but by the time we got home, we were both wishing we had ordered the bigger plate. I had fish (local cod) and my friend had oysters (local, from Umpqua Triangle Oysters).

Then, we went on an exploration drive and ended up at a beach. It was chilly and windy, not too conducive for long beach time, but I walked out there long enough to see the beach and take a few pics. Later, I realized I'd been there before. Part of this post on my other blog.

I wasn't in the mood to pick my way through this rather typical logjam to go beyond this, but I was happy just to be this close. I really miss living on the coast!

Keep an eye on that jetty -- it'll show up in the other post from  years ago and another photo here, later. Last time, I walked out it quite a way until the rocks became so rough I didn't dare try to walk them.

Then, we drove up to the Umpqua Lighthouse and stopped to take in the view far below. It was up here that I recognized the beach from the previous trip.

Not a bad view! In the distance, in the center, there are two jetties jutting out at angles to form a triangle. Inside that triangle are oyster beds -- ergo, Umpqua Triangle Oysters! It would be cool to buy some of these fresh one of these days, bring 'em home and cook 'em.






Nice day, despite the lack of expected sunshine.

Tiny, wriggling, burrowing sea critters

I finally got my bare feet on a beach yesterday -- but it was an Oregon beach, not a California beach!

 

What you can't see in the surf in the first photo is these thousands -- probably millions -- of small, wriggling creatures that washed up in every wave, burrowing immediately into the sand. I haven't a clue what they are, and they weren't inclined to hold still for a photographer. I will say that when I stood in the surf and they washed around me, I could feel them tickling my feet. Weird and cool at the same time. Anybody have a clue?

I always love this particular beach, have visited it often. The sand patterns are always fun, and at low tide there is a richness of sea critters clinging to the big rocks. It never disappoints.

Looking back from whence I walked. The wind had been at my back walking down the beach, and of course when I had to walk back to town, it became a headwind. A very strong headwind! Sand blowing everywhere. In fact, today I found (and still find) grains of sand in my eyebrows, for example, and of course in my hair. But it was awesome to walk down here again, see the mysterious wriggling critters.

Back in my motel room, a slightly more civilized ocean view, but not nearly as satisfying.

So naturally, you're wondering why I'm at an Oregon beach when I'm supposed to be in California. Or not. I'm still having a hard time trying to formulate why I left into a few words that make sense, but I decided on Tuesday that I needed to leave. I was (or felt) obligated to wait until others returned to the forest, rather than just bolting, so I ended up leaving Friday morning, opting to make an overnight trip of it and then opting to take the scenic route. I'll try to explain more about the 'why' when I get it figured out.

The beach is at the small town of Port Orford, which is always one of my favorite places to stop when I drive along the coast. That beach is always awesome, and the town itself is kind of cool, in a quaint way. It's home to a large and active fishing fleet, but doesn't have a harbor. Figure that one out!

Rather than reinvent the wheel here, I'm going to take the lazy route and refer you to these articles on the town that I wrote over on my Southern Oregon Coast blog a few years back. I don't think I've ever written about it here.

It's also home to what was (and I emphasize was) one of my favorite crazy food joints. Again, refer to the above link, but the place used to have the best fish&chips I've ever tasted. Last night, not so much. Not bad, but the fish looked (and tasted) nothing like that in the photo on the other blog. The breading was always what made it so delicious -- fluffy and crisp and staying on the fish. Last night, bland, soggy, and falling off the fish. Bah. One more food fantasy derailed. Guess I'm gonna have to amend the article about that place.

From there it was an easy drive into Eugene -- could have made it in 3 hours, but I was goofing off, stopping, actually stalling for time because I didn't want to arrive too early and awaken my housemate, who tends to like to sleep in on her weekends off.

I'm really tired. Haven't slept hardly at all the last 3 nights, and not too much for most of the time I was down there. I dozed a bit earlier, watching TV, so I suspect that being home will help me get a little shut-eye tonight. Maybe tomorrow my brain will have a little more energy, work a bit better. For now -- it's good to be home.

Magic Mountains -- and other stories

Mt. Shasta, from afar

You can argue with me all you want, but you'll never convince me that big mountains don't have magic. Prior to 1996, when I first experienced that magic at Mt. Rainier, I'd have probably been in the other camp myself. Magic? Hah! I'd spent two months riding my bike through Colorado's rockies, even climbed one of the fourteeners, but I'd never felt any magic.

But back in 1996 as I sat in my car in a pullout on that mountain, inside the park at the top of the road, I felt that mountain's energy. It filled the car and permeated my body. It was real, not imagined. I never saw the mountain itself -- it was shrouded in fog, but I sure could feel its presence.

Mt. Shasta, up close and personal, near Shasta City

Not all mountains seem to have that magic, or perhaps it's merely that I'm not picking up on the vibes of all mountains. However one chooses to feel about that, I personally have only experienced that magic at two mountains: Rainier, and this beauty, Mt. Shasta. I've driven past countless times, ridden past on a train, but it never fails to speak to me somewhere deep inside. Kind of hazy today, but at least not hiding in the clouds.

My craving for this baby was delayed by many hours -- had trouble finding the location in Redding, and by the time I found it I passed the entrance and the traffic was such that I couldn't get back to it without a lot more driving. I'd already driven all over town, so I gave it up, had another nut bar and some almonds for lunch. By the time I got to Petaluma, CA around 3pm I was feeling the need for food (almost 9 hours after leaving home). I am stubborn, refused to stop at any other fast food (read: junk) place, but I remembered that there was an In-N-Out on the map where I was routed to cross 101 in Petaluma, so I beelined there like a magnet. I gotta tell you, it was well worth the wait. I've eaten at In-N-Out several times in Santa Rosa, but never ventured past the basic burger and while it was OK, it was never great. This baby is the double-double animal style, medium rare with grilled onions and chiles. Juicy, delicious, my hands were covered in it afterwards. Ahhhhhh. Bliss.

Of course, Buddhist teachings would probably consider my issues finding the Redding location to be a type of karma -- a quick lesson in the suffering brought on by craving! And I can live with that.

I'm here, of course. Exactly 11 hours, door-to-door, with only a few brief stops before the 30 minutes or so for lunch.  I'm still tired, but happy. Weather is that perfect, welcome to California stuff the tourist bureau likes to talk about. Even here on the coast, the sun is warm, the breeze refreshing, and even the night wasn't particularly cold.

I've been given today as a day of rest, which is much appreciated. The others have gone into town for the afternoon. Tomorrow, I'll make that trip with Ayya, for some pindapat (alms-offerings from lay people to monastics) on the streets of Sebastapol. This is something she's started doing since I was last here, so it should be fun. It's scheduled, the route she walks is published, and people stand along the route with offerings for her bowl. This is how it's been done for centuries, in Asia, and it's a good tradition to keep alive even when it's not required.

I love my kuti. This is the view from one side in the early morning sun.  That bright spot is a bunch of Pampas grass, primarily.

So I'm here alone -- lunch is over, I've washed my hair and the dishes (although not in that order) and after hitting the 'publish' button on this, will wend my way back up the hill for some rest and reading.

A slightly closer view of the sunny area, with some detail. It's so pretty up there. A trail winds past the Pampas grass through some open areas, across a wooden bridge and to another kuti, eventually. I walked that this morning, re-familiarizing myself with my surroundings. Sat in the sun on the wooden bridge for awhile. It's nice to be here and be lazy -- rarely happens for me!

More when more happens.

Ocean mist-cleaned air

Home, for the next month, starting Monday! This is Ratana, or Jewel, kuti. Coincidentally the very first place I stayed during my first visit, several years ago. Exquisitely private, gets some nice sun, very open-woodsy setting, and no serious uphill walking required to reach it.

Inside is simple, but adequate. Lots of natural light, windows open only to the forest, no trails or other sources of other humans. This is what it looked like a year ago -- things get moved around, but usually they are the same things! I don't imagine it'll be much different now.

Heat source for those cool nights. Tiny little wood stove that really will heat the place nicely. I never really got the knack of keeping it burning low for a long time. With the drought down there, I don't even know if I'll be allowed to use it.

The view from one end of the deck. The other end is about the same -- this one leads to the trail to the landings, kitchen, and all other development.

I am really looking forward to being there. A month of total peace and quiet, nobody else in the house, no yappy little dog. Now, I live in a very quiet, very wooded space that would be hard to top despite the dog, and I have a really cool roommate. No complaints there, but the redwood forest, and a kuti with no electricity (i.e. no electronic distractions or noises) is a whole different thing.

I'm also looking forward to having something to do with my time. I'm bored, again. Life swings that way, for me, it seems. I am fairly well (not 100% but largely) convinced that much of my ennui and lack of energy comes from boredom, as much as or more than anything physical. I'll be cooking there -- at least part of the time. Don't know if I'll be doing all of it, but there will be other chores, including some driving.  All that is good. Keeps me busy. And somehow, this forest always energizes me. The head nun wrote to me the other day, in her inimitable poetic fashion, 

Our hermitage forest is so rejuvenating, with its ocean mist-cleaned air and the breath of so many herbs and soft fragrant earth beneath the trees.

She is so right! It's magic, in its own way, and it always works its magic on me. I expect it'll do the same this time.

A drive to the coast

The quintessential post-card view of Heceta Head Lighthouse, just north of Florence, Oregon. I've seen others that capture the vista better than this, but it's nothing short of breathtaking in person. Was the first time I saw it in 1996, still is now.

I had an unusually good night's sleep and woke up interested in doing something. A trip to the coast came to mind, but was initially discounted, although I couldn't let go of what a beautiful day it was over there. It came back with a vengeance, so off I went.

I wanted a beach rather badly, to walk upon, but at the two where I stopped I found parking fees of $4 and $5, and I wasn't willing to spend that for a short walk on a beach. I remember the days when all of Oregon's beaches were free access, but I guess those days are in the past. Oh, anybody can still walk on all 365 or so miles of it -- as long as you have a way to get there that doesn't involve parking a car. So, I satisfied myself with the views and what was supposed to be a good lunch.

Another view of Heceta Head, although from the same location. I can't decide which I like best, hence both are included.

Just below the viewpoint, these sea lions on the beach were making quite a lot of noise, At first I thought it was somebody's radio, then realized what it was. Sea Lion Caves is just south of this, and it appears that the nice day brought the residents out of that cave. More were swimming toward this beach.

A close-up view of Heceta Head. The lighthouse is barely visible through the trees toward the point. The caretaker's cottage is now a B&B, which I think would be really fun to visit. There was a path from this beach up to the lighthouse and I would have taken it if there wasn't a $5 parking fee. Yes, that irritates me, but I'll get over it.

Then, I headed in to Florence for lunch. This is one of my favorite places and I can never stop taking pictures because everything down here is just so photogenic. This is Old Town, and the bridge over Hwy 101 with a glimpse of the dunes on the other side.

The cherry blossoms were blooming and as you can see, the day was sunny and warm. Shirt sleeves even for me!

These spring-like clematis were enjoying the sunshine, too.

So -- about that lunch. Tomorrow I start my diet, so I thought a last 'blow out' would be fun, plus allow me to say I actually 'go off' certain foods in the coming days. As it turned out, the only thing I had that I have to 'go off' is alcohol, in the form of one beer. Not even chocolate! Chocolate is actually ok on the diet, but I digress.

I'd decided to go to Mo's, which is legendary on the central Oregon coast. I think I ate at one location back in 1996 when I first arrived, but hadn't done so since. I ordered fish tacos that sounded great on the menu. But, the breading on the cod was soggy and seemed stale, there was so much slaw in the tortilla that it was hard to fold it up to eat, and the entire thing was bland and tasteless. And for the price, not much cod. Grumble. Other than the view and the Rogue beer, it was a wasted $20. Sorry, Mo's, but I'd rather offend you than suggest that somebody else go there. Old Town has any number of other eating establishments, any one of which would likely have been a better choice. Win some, lose some.

It's odd, but I've had fish tacos on three occasions recently, two at fairly well-known places. Mo's, of course, is famous in these parts and theirs was the worst of the bunch. A few weeks ago I had some at a local place called Fisherman's Market, which while not quite famous, is certainly well-known around here and was recently featured on Food Network's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. This one was acceptable, but also on the bland side, somehow. The best came from a small brew-pub in the small town of Oakridge awhile back.

So -- that was my day. Still wish I'd found a beach to walk on, and had a better lunch, but all in all I'm glad I went, got my 'fix' on this beautiful, scenic area again. I should be good for awhile, until the pull for sand between my toes gets too strong and I go prepared to pay for parking.

Sahalie Falls

I have been enamored of Sahalie Falls since I first discovered it, quite accidentally, not long after I settled in Oregon back in 1996. I just wanted to explore the mountains, see what was up there, so I pointed my little truck east from Corvallis and opted to turn right when I reached the McKenzie Highway, probably because the maps showed that was the way back to the Willamette Valley. Little did I know what awaited me not far down this road. It's all beautiful, as most of it follows the exquisite McKenzie River all the way almost into Eugene. But early on there was a sign that I couldn't resist: Sahalie Falls. So I pulled into the parking lot and followed the trail (and the noise!) and when I came upon this sight my heart just leapt out of my chest. The trail continues on to another large waterfall, Koosah, and circles back on the other side of the river. I've only made that round trip once, but I remember waterfall after waterfall, and rapids and forests and nothing but utter beauty. I was entranced then, and I still am.

Last time I was here was in the spring of 2009, not long before I moved away from Eugene. There's a primitive video on this page where I wrote about that day's journey.

The above photo is the first I took when I arrived, and frankly, the best of the bunch, I think. But, there are others.

This photo is from a different spot and shows the entire scene a bit more -- and don't you love that beautiful arc of rainbow? First time I've encountered that, and it was fascinating to watch. I could watch the mist drifting through it in places.

This one was taken a little further down the trail, shows that beautiful, clear water rushing downhill from the falls. Hard to get much in the way of photos here because of the trees, but I wouldn't change the trees -- they add to the beauty of the place.

At about this point, my camera battery died. I'd thought about charging it before leaving home, but decided it was probably good enough. Wrong! We continued east to the sweet little town of Sisters for lunch, stopping along the way at a couple of places. One was a resort on a lake with snow-capped mountains behind it. Simply breathtaking! And of course, the day was warm and crystal clear, blue skies and sunshine and I itched for a photo, but it'll just have to stay in my memory. There were many such views -- of the Three Sisters, and Mt. Washington. No snow where we were, but they are much higher and had plenty.

Lovely day. And next time we go out driving, I'll be sure the battery is charged.

Tired, but happy

For any who wonder -- I arrived safely after just over 11 hours, door-to-door, yesterday.  Much longer than I anticipated, but I took a longish lunch break because after 6 hours of steady driving, I needed the break and food! Also a couple of traffic jams of unknown origins here and there, including here in Santa Rosa. But -- I'm here, happy, and looking forward to my time with these wonderful people.

One thing that became really obvious yesterday was that going home via I-5 sounds absolutely wonderful! Long stretches of concrete, easy cruise-control, all sound much better than the scenic but winding roads and small towns of yesterday. It was, as always, great to see the redwoods and the coastline, but going home will be a different path.  And while I've been saying there's no good way to get here from I-5, I realized en route yesterday that for some reason I've been avoiding taking Hwy 12 through the city of Sonoma -- probably because of past memories of heavy tourist traffic that are unrealistic. From where we are, it's an easy drive to pick up 12 in Glen Ellen, then an equally easy drive from there to Napa and thus to I-80 and I-5. Not as big a deal as I thought it would be, as often happens.

But in the meantime -- I'm going to rest up this morning before starting lunch, which will mostly be warmed-up leftovers. This old body is tired, but happy.

Ooooohhhhhhhh!

Ohhhhhh!

That seemed to be the limit of my vocabulary early this morning as I drove from Eugene to the Coast. First, the road begins to wind its way over the Coast range, alongside a stream surrounded by old, thick trees whose branches were curved and arching in beautiful patterns, all moss-topped and breathtaking in the morning light. Then when I reached the Siuslaw River just before Florence it started again -- I'm just a sucker for rivers and bridges and pilings and piers jutting out and the whole picturesque scene. Naturally, neither of these particular sights offered an opportunity for stopping to take pictures.

Other Ohhhhhhs! followed here and there along the length of the coast, which is itself one of my favorite places on earth. I stopped often for photos, but none of them are really interesting. I stopped for lunch at my favorite place, The Crazy Norwegian's, in Port Orford, but passed on their fabulous fish and chips because I was having some tonight. Bad choice! The clam chowder and sourdough bread was as delicious as I expect food there to be. But tonight, I arrived at the remembered place in Brookings to find that it had changed -- and not for the better! No more fishing supplies, more tables, a fancier and more expensive menu, and the fish and chips were barely more than mediocre. A good example of the Buddhist theory that everything changes. And maybe a reminder of the dangers of craving anything.

So -- tomorrow on to California, the Sonoma Coast. And while none of today's photos were particularly good, I'd like to share them anyway because I just can't help myself. Unfortunately, the slow download speed of the wireless in this motel won't allow that. This, too, has been a disappointment -- prior stays here have been terrific. But -- no matter. It's clean and private, the bed is good and the tv works. And I don't want to do much more than sleep.

The present, the future

So here I sit, approaching 6am and barely light outside, sipping coffee and watching the world come alive outside and in the garden. Even the chickens are still abed!

This is kind of what I'm looking at right now, although it was much brighter outside when I took this photo yesterday than it is this early in the morning.

This is such a sweet place -- I plan to come back and stay, sometime in August once the incoming, short-term renter has moved on. Then, with my own things in place and settled in, I can make it 'home' and be quite comfortable here. It's small (although larger than the kuti I'll be living in for the next 3 months) but all the windows, skylight and open ceiling make it feel much larger. I don't feel at all claustrophobic and I love the interaction outside during the day with the chickens, cats, a sweet dog, and even the humans.  There's lots and lots I can do for comfort.

A closer look outside -- the chickens and part of the garden, plus the 'catio', a clever place just outside the window that would allow an inside cat to spend some time outside without escaping.

The mess and clutter are mine -- camping out! The sleeping nook will hold a full-size bed, although it's a bit snug. I'll be using my air mattress and may move it beneath the window by the chickens, on some kind of platform, and use it as a day-bed/sofa as well. The nook can be used for many things -- a dresser, a meditation spot, whatever feels right. The bath is tiny, but functional.

More of my temporary clutter messing up a very nice space. With all the built-ins I'll have room for all my kitchen stuff and books and whatever.

The cottage itself, in the morning light. Not it's best angle -- it's actually quite cute -- but I didn't want to venture further into the garden and disturb anyone so early. Garlic in front of the deck -- gotta love that!

The deck, again in the early morning light. Nothing stirring out there at this point other than a hummingbird.

So -- the present moment and the future home. Today I'm driving south along the beautiful (and beloved by me) Oregon Coast to my old home in Brookings, where I'll stay overnight before heading on to California tomorrow. There's a big basket of Oregon fish & chips awaiting me tonight at my favorite spot down at the harbor. My real favorite spot, of course, is The Crazy Norwegian's in Port Orford, but I'm going to bypass that today and settle for another rather funky place (a few tables in the back of a fisherman's supply store/bait shop) that has really good fish and chips and draft beer.

Home

Despite the previous bitching about the speed and un-fun of the trip, I am SO, SO glad to be in Eugene! The trip began to be perfect and worthwhile once we left the city of Bend behind and headed into and over the beautiful Cascade Mountains.

This morning, albeit initially with some trepidation and fear regarding getting lost, I ventured from my friend's hideaway in the woods outside of town to run some errands. First stop was a laundromat, then on to a State Farm office to be sure I was going to remain covered with the car over the interim few months before I move back here to stay. My current coverage expired in late August, so having my new coverage material returned to sender would probably not be a good thing. I found my old agency here in Eugene and they took care of the transfer, using my friend's address temporarily. So, not only am I covered, but my rate was cut almost in half! I was hoping it would go down, because it certainly went up when I got to Georgia, but wasn't expecting that much of a break. No complaints here.

All those initial fears about getting lost have been (so far) without merit. As I suspected, once I got into town everything looked familiar and I was able to find my way around without too much trouble. People are smiling and friendly, and finally my Oregon sweatshirt and rear window decals fit right in.

With an hour to kill before my next appointment (the new landlady!) I found a nice cafe with free wireless and here I sit, writing this. Drinking a mango/banana/Nancy's yogurt smoothie and eating a vegan oatmeal chocolate chip cookie. I wasn't quite ready for a 'normal' lunch, but since I needed to buy something in order to hang around, this fit the bill, and is really good, and mostly healthy.

Talked to the potential landlady twice last evening, and she suggested that since the cottage is clean and waiting for the next tenant (a 2-month rental starting in a couple of weeks), I was welcome to use it as a motel room for a couple of days before heading south. That way, I can get a good feel for how it would be to live there, see how I do with the chickens (not a problem!) and the two of us can get to know one another. So if upon inspection it seems like a place I could live, that's exactly what I'm going to do. How kind of her to offer!  My friend's place is really small, and there's not much for me to do there, no wireless access, so I think this is a perfect solution.

I'm still looking forward to the summer in California, but Eugene feels like home, and that's a good thing.

Fast times

We are in the small town of Burley, Idaho -- last stop on what has become a whirlwind trip to the west coast. Not what I had in mind when I left Georgia -- I was looking forward to leisurely trip with some relaxation thrown in, so I wouldn't be so tired at the end. Instead -- 5 push-push-push days that haven't been even an iota of fun, certainly not relaxing, and forget about not being tired. I'm pooped -- and it's so hard to unwind after long days on the road.

Last night we were in Eagle, CO, near Vail. Before that, Salina, KS. Before that, someplace I don't even remember. Tomorrow night -- 601 miles later -- we will hopefully be in Eugene. I have a lovely cottage awaiting my inspection for rental in August, some laundry to do, hopefully a bit of rest, then on Wednesday I head south to the hermitage, where I am sorely needed. Once again, Ayya Sobhana has been left alone there due to unforeseen circumstances (someone left due to an emergency, another cancelled due to family illness). So once again -- but only for a few weeks -- I will be chief cook and bottle washer, but this time in the new kitchen, rather than the makeshift (but quite useable) outdoor kitchen of last summer. I'm really looking forward to being there again, in the peace and quiet and friendship.

Also looking forward to returning to Eugene in August and -- if I like the place after I see it, and if the owner likes me -- setting up housekeeping in the cottage. It's tiny, but set in a garden with plenty of veggies, fruit trees, berry patches and even chickens for eggs -- all of which are available for grazing.

That's it for now. Just needed to chill a bit, and writing here always chills me out. Haven't had time to take many photos, but what I have will appear here eventually.

Full circle

Remember the various posts I made when this movie was being filmed here in town? When I arrived home on Tuesday, I saw that it's actually (finally!) playing at the West, which was featured in the film. I haven't gone to see it and probably won't -- they don't do matinees, and I don't do evenings. You can find all those previous posts below by just clicking on the Jayne Mansfield's Car label at the bottom.

Also found this on the camera, which I'd totally forgotten about. The bus from Jenner made a detour to the western side of Bodega Bay where the driver took a 10 minute break. It was so lovely -- but then, I'm always a sucker for boats and docks and marinas and such.




Saw my dermatologist yesterday -- I lost count (and he stopped counting aloud) at 20 zaps to my face alone. He moved on to my hands, but soon stopped, with only a cursory glance at the rest of my body, looking for obvious problems. I think he though I'd had enough -- and he was right. I usually get around 10 -- never anywhere near this many. And there were two that needed biopsy (and thus needles to deaden). So much fun.

It's on the chilly side here this morning -- down to 60. It's that time of year when it's silly to turn on heat in the morning because it'll be warm later on.  Brrrrr. It was this cold in Jenner most mornings, but I was in Polarfleece and other warm stuff.

A new experience

So here I sit, settled in at SFO for my very long wait until my flight departs at just before midnight. Civilized city that it is, they have free wi-fi, so I'm all set to be happy for awhile.

The security lanes were empty when I arrived, and since the place I want to have dinner is inside those lanes, I opted to come on in -- little did I know the excitement that awaited me! First, a young man politely said they needed to do a bag check on my backpack, and please meet him at the end of the conveyor when all my stuff was through. That done, it turns out that the machines detected symptoms of explosives in the bag. So I got to watch while he carefully took things out, swiped some paper through it then fed the paper back through a machine -- did that several times, in several areas of the bag, even swiped my smelly running shoes. Naturally, the found nothing -- I did tell them that I'd been in a redwood forest with mold and mildew and chemicals used to get rid of those things. Then, I got my 'massage'. A very nice woman did a full pat down -- I opted against the private area for this. My flip-flops and sweatshirt and computer bag all had to go back through the system. I was relaxed and having fun with it -- a new and different experience, and they were polite. I told them I had a long wait anyway and it didn't really matter whether I spent it there or further into the terminal -- I was not exactly in a hurry. In the end, I was cleared and now here I sit. Waiting, patiently for now -- but with another 7 hours to go, that may change.

Had a great day! Wonderful, if emotional and confusing, morning talks with Ayya, a nice wait for the bus alongside the Pacific, an interesting ride into Santa Rosa where my good friend Sylvia waited. I had no particular interest in hanging around Santa Rosa, so we headed to Sonoma where we had a great lunch at a wonderful restaurant on the square, called The Girl With the Fig, or something like that. Nice shaded outdoor patio, perfect weather, good food and even better companionship. Then, on to Napa where she dropped me at the Napa airport shuttle. This time we crossed the new Oakland Bay Bridge that just opened over Labor Day weekend -- that was really cool. Will be better once the old span is taken down, but they're working on it. The thing just floats -- just a low concrete barrier on the right side, with a series of tall white supports on the left, between the two sections of the bridge. Then short suspension points to the one tower. A cool experience.

So now I wait. When I get back to Atlanta, it'll be tomorrow.

Life is good

Didja think I fell off the face of the earth? For awhile, I kinda thought I had done just that, or was at least on the brink of doing so.

I struggled for the first week and a half -- seriously struggled with energy (lack thereof). We made numerous trips into Santa Rosa, often leaving early in the morning and arriving back late at night. Plus cooking (which I am coming to enjoy more and more) and general life.

But -- a couple of days ago I began to notice that magical moment when the energy was returning, when I no longer needed to crash right after lunch. I knew the moment would come -- it always does, as the body hardens up to meet new physical demands -- but there were days when I wasn't sure I was gonna outlast it.

Having some serious computer (software, thank you very much Microsoft!) issues that threatened (and may still threaten) the ability for the computer to function, hasn't helped. I've never made a secret about how much I dislike techie stuff, and how uncomfortable I am with it. But, I make gains. A couple of downloads this morning that were supposed to help. And disconnecting Word as my email editor. That seemed to be the biggest holdup over the past couple of days, so we'll see what happens in the future. I have over 2 weeks left here, so I need to keep it working. Internet is still slow, but functioning. Only time will tell for the rest.

Life here is good, despite the difficulties. It doesn't hurt that we have had a long spate of hot, sunny days with good breezes. Perfect weather. And it doesn't hurt that the last two afternoons we drove to Windsor (north of Santa Rosa) along the Russian River through some very beautiful and very excellent vineyards and wineries. My heart sings at the vineyards, and my palate resounds at certain winery signs, such as Sonoma-Cutrer. Not sure just what memory that reflected, but it was a good one. Maybe I just know they make a really, really good chardonnay, or maybe my palate remembers just how good it was when I had some.

I'm getting used to handwashing a couple of t-shirts every couple of mornings (I don't have many with me because I expected 'normal' cooler weather). Lunches have mostly been pretty good, if I may say so. Today I fixed what was supposed to be a frittata, but which seemed more like a Spanish omelet to me -- lots of potatoes. I've made lots of frittatas in my day, but never one without an oven, so I had to use my friend Google to learn how to do it on the stovetop. Also fixed some roasted red pepper/garlic salad, which is one of my favorite things. I cook on two big camp stoves, with serious BTUs, and it's fun to roast the peppers right over the flames.

So now it's time to put away the lunch dishes, and turn to bookkeeping. Life is good.

Sweet sunset

Now, this is what it's all about, folks! We drove into Santa Rosa on Sunday and as we headed home from Bodega, the sun was putting on quite a show. Ayya suggested we stop for a minute -- a great way to relax after a long day.

I'm actually in Santa Rosa again at the moment. Ayya had to come in for some ceremonies today and tomorrow at the new Vihara, and while I was offered a very nice private room, I opted for a motel, so I can do anything I want to do at any given moment without worrying about proper protocol.  I have no clue what I'm supposed to do at the Vihara much of the time, and it's too easy to do the wrong thing simply from that ignorance. Besides that, I've been really, really, tired -- no chance to recover from that loooooog day of travel before jumping right in and driving in to do loads of laundry (not alone -- Ayya always helps and does more than her share), then take over the daily cooking and kitchen cleanup chores. In short, I'm pooped! Shortly after the above photo was taken, after we passed Jenner but hadn't reached our road, I felt that old, familiar feeling of 'hitting the wall', which is a term I first learned way back in 1983 while I was training for my Colorado bike ride. What it means is that the body literally runs out of energy to continue. I recognized what was happening, told Ayya, but assured her I was ok to get us home. It was dicey on our narrow, twisty, bumpy road, but while I may have been a bit loopy, no harm came to anything.

Still -- I'm pooped. And since I made such a big fuss about needing to have the oil changed in the truck, that was part of my day -- I had to wait 3 hours (2 promised), and didn't get to my motel until almost 6:30. And I was supposed to have a restful afternoon! So yes, I'm still pooped. Fortunately, I've been able to mostly be aware of all the mental fussing I've been doing based around the body fatigue, and was mostly able to let go of it, at least for that moment. And once I wind down, I'll be hitting the sheets. And I can stay here all morning if I wish -- will pick her up around noon for the return trip home.


It's a hard life, no doubt about it. But if I continue to work through the issues I'm still sure I can and want to make this work. I will not give up this time. The rewards are so wonderful. The forest heals. The sunshine heals. That beautiful ocean and beaches and sunsets heal. It all offsets the difficulty. I think.

Home, again

For me, there is something miraculous that happens when my flight is say, about an hour out of San Francisco. It's not intentional, it just happens. Anticipation starts to build, and it's anticipation filled with joy and much, much more. My heart soars and the feeling gets stronger and stronger as the plane gets closer and closer. I'm coming home. My heart is coming home -- to its spiritual home. I've considered that city to be my spiritual home for over 40 years now -- during the times I was lucky enough to live there, and as strongly in the times I lived elsewhere.

This is home. And it feels like home. My heart is happy and at ease in a way that it never is 'at home' in Georgia.

I had to laugh once I left the gate and entered the SFO concourse yesterday, because the first thing that hit my senses was the smell of good -- no, make that wonderful -- food. What else would you expect in San Francisco, even at the airport?

At the moment, we are in a laundromat in Guerneville doing many loads of laundry to try and rid it of mold and mildew smell. This is an experience all in itself. Sixty dollars in quarters so far. Welcome to California.

Yesterday was a comedy of errors from beginning to end, yet in each incident I was able to let go of worrying, let go of any fear around each ' what if' that came along. Made for a calm and peaceful day amidst snags.

I got to the Atlanta airport and checked my bags, got my boarding pass, headed to the gate, waited for a flight to load and then the next departing flight was not to SFO so I asked at the counter and it turned out that my ticket was for a flight leaving that night at 9:55 pm, instead of 9:55 am. Luckily, Delta had another non-stop flight leaving an hour later, and she got me on it, got my checked bag re-routed, and all I had to do was walk to the end of that terminal, take the train under the runway to the other terminal, then go almost to the end (gate 5 of 18). But I was on.  The flight got in around 1:05, the Sonoma Airporter bus I needed to catch left at 1:30. I dashed from the plane to the baggage, where my bag didn't come out until maybe the third load. I was just happy to see that it got onto the plane! I grabbed it, looked at my watch: 1:28. I thought, no way I can get out there in time -- but also no way I can't try. So backpack on the back, heavy computer bag in one hand, heavy, big duffel in the other, I moved as fast as I could toward the door that led to the street crossing for the shuttles. I got there 30 seconds before the bus!

Then, the driver told me he wouldn't get to Sonoma Airport in time for me to catch my bus to Jenner, because of freeway construction slowdowns. I relaxed, knowing I had a back-up plan for a ride, and content to wait and see if I would make the connection. He, in the meantime, had devised another plan. At his last stop before the Airport, he told me he was going to go off his route and drop me at the Santa Rosa Transit Mall, where I would be able to catch the bus! He stopped at a corner and I had to hustle off the bus quickly with all bags, then walk a block or so, but what great thing to do! From there, I waited around 20 minutes in the breezy sunshine, then enjoyed one of those 'California only' experiences. A small bus, local people (interesting local people), headed to Mendocino eventually. Laid back, fun. We drove through the rolling hills to Bodega, then headed north along the coast (and yes, my heart really did soar, then) to Jenner. The driver dropped me at the end of the private road that comes up here, a few miles north of Jenner, where Ayya Sobhana was waiting for me. A wonderful day of potential 'disasters' that all had happy endings.

Weather here is fabulous. Warm and sunny, the coastal fog far, far out at sea. It won't last forever and is most unusual for this time of year, but nobody is complaining.

On the road -- AGAIN!

First, let me say that I am so proud of my little car! Even as it approaches 90,000 miles it continues to get such wonderful gas mileage. On this last trip with three fillups, mileages were: 38.45, 38.52 and 39.49mpg! The latter was actually the first tank, when I was driving easily in the early morning hours headed northeast. The last two covered heavy slow/fast and even stop and go traffic during the next half of the trip north, and a slightly heavier foot on the pedal all the way home. I'm getting braver, edging that speed up just a tad and hoping the vigilant Virginia cops leave me alone. So far, so good. If I didn't have this car -- or another car with equally good mileage -- I'd never be able to afford all these trips I take.

My next trip, however, is going to take me further and faster -- as in a big old jet from Atlanta to San Francisco. I returned home to find my dear friend Ayya Sobhana left alone at the hermitage with only one lay woman to help, and many construction and maintenance projects underway. The other bhikkhunis are staying elsewhere for the next few months while all this is going on, so I felt that I had to find a way to help her out. I can do more of the financial stuff from there, and more to help her with various elements of project management. I am already doing more from here, but in a few weeks there are no more lay women scheduled to visit and help. Someone must prepare her food and drive her from time to time -- the monastic orders do not allow her to do these things for herself.

That said, I'll be leaving here August 14 and returning September 17. Cold weather, rodents, mold and all the chaos be damned! It'll also be a really good opportunity for me to determine whether or not I will be able to go there to stay, as I've been considering once again. This is going to be tougher than last year -- the 'kitchen' is outdoors, soon to be covered by a large canopy that I just ordered for them. Two big Coleman camp stoves do the work. Water is nearby -- don't know if it's been plumbed to the temporary kitchen or not. But, I've cooked meals in the woods for myself many times, using a simple one-burner backpacking stove, so I can do this. All that's needed is filling and nutritious food -- nothing fancy.

So, it's going to be an adventure -- one I'm looking forward to. This time I'm taking some good cold weather clothing, even though that will require checking a bag and thus more $$. But the comfort will be worth it.

Bhavana visit

I've never seen Bhavana more beautiful than on this visit -- but then, I've never been there in spring or early summer, either. Some of my photos were lost in the process of transferring from the camera, which has never happened before, but I'll show what survived.

I've never seen the lily pond in bloom before. On my first visit, it had just been cleaned out and was just a mud puddle without a lot of plants around it. I took better photos than this, but this is the only one that survived.

 

 

 

The lily pond is just to the left of the bridge, the meditation hall behind it.

One of the beautiful lilys in the pond.

From near the columbarium -- such beautiful, green woods!

The columbarium, where people may choose to have their ashes interred. There is work planned for this area during the summer. My will stipulates that my own ashes be sent here.

So, that's what survived. As I suspected before I left, residency here will not be possible for me, except possibly during a summer. The work is difficult even now -- I was pretty well pooped out even during this short visit -- and their need is for 'strong young bodies'. Clearly, that is not me. I can, of course, attend as many retreats as I wish, and go for short visits or residencies, but not long term. As Bhante G said, we have to look at realities in these things, and even I know that the reality for me is that this is just too difficult for my aging body.

On the other hand, when I was there my heart felt that it was at home -- the place it wanted to be. The rest of me agrees. After a beautiful drive through the West Virginia and Virginia backroads, with tantalizing glimpses of the mountains and beautiful Shenandoah Valley in the early morning light, when I reached I-81 at Strasburg, VA there was great reluctance in the act of steering my car onto the on-ramp -- and a bit of dampness in the eyes. I really wasn't ready to leave.

So what does the future hold for me now that this isn't a possibility? I don't know yet, but I'm thinking about some way of living closer so I can visit more often. I feel that there is unfinished business for me there, and I want to honor that if I can. Right now, I'm still too tired to think about it too much.