Capricious: Napa - Part One

Well this is, after all, what it's all about. These were display vines in a courtyard in downtown Napa but still -- grapes are grapes and I didn't wander off into any vineyards. No clue what variety these are, but they are clearly beginning to change color as they march towards harvest time.

Friday morning Sylvia and I headed out for the day in her sweet little convertible sports car with the top down. So fitting, and such a wonderful way to tool around the Valley or any place else. We began the day with a group from the local Audubon Society in a birdwalk. Not too many interesting birds, unfortunately, but we had a good hike in Skyline Park. I eventually pulled the plug after we'd walked up one long hill then started down it. I was tired after all my walking in San Francisco and didn't want to have to reclimb this hill from the other side. I know. Wimp.

Since it was too early for lunch, we went into downtown Napa, which has changed beyond belief. When I moved to the Valley in 1979, and when I left in 1986, the city of Napa was drab, boring and completely uninteresting. No more! It has blossomed. Fabulous restaurants, ritzy hotels, super shopping complexes and a wonderful walking/cycling path along the river front that will eventually connect with some path that encompasses the entire Bay Area. As you can see below, they've turned wonderful old industrial areas into hotel and shopping areas, and done it with true Napa Valley flair and style. I was stunned.

My only quest for Napa was for some Rancho Gordo beans. This small but growing Napa company produces heirloom beans that will knock your socks off. I first read about them some months ago in the New York Times On-Line, promptly ordered 3 varieties and found them impossibly delicious. Beans are beans, right? Wrong. All I can say is, try them. Most of their business is done online, but they have a few outlets including a couple in the Napa Valley. I could have ordered more online, but as beans go these are on the pricey side and since I was here anyway -- why pay the shipping?

The Napa outlet is a small store called The Fatted Calf. I thought I took a photo of their bean display, but apparently not. But, here's their butcher case. Aside from some cheeses and a wall of packaged goods, there wasn't much more to the store than this, but there didn't need to be. Be sure to click on the photo to enlarge, read the blackboard and look at the fine foods.

And here are the four packages of beans I brought home with me. I admit that except for the Yellow Indian Woman beans I chose the rest as much for color as anything. There were simply too many to choose from, otherwise. Try them -- you'll like it!

Beans safely in hand, we continued around the corner into a large indoor market inside a reclaimed brick building from days of yore.

This is but a small sampling of both the market place and the area. Flowers were everywhere. Aside from the above items, the market place had seafood, meats, an oyster bar and naturally, a very large wine section. The cheese selection, above, was unbelievable.

After all this we opted for lunch at Taylor's Refresher, which was nearby. This place has a fascinating story. When I lived in the Valley, the only Taylor's Refresher was a small white wooden structure in St. Helena that was a basic old-time fast-food place. I never went there, and neither did most other people. A few years back a couple of brothers bought the place and transformed its menu into something extraordinary. It's been written up in Bon Appetit and lots of other places. There are now three locations, including the original in St. Helena. I love that kind of story. We ordered at the counter, found a seat outside in the shade with a glass of wine, and enjoyed the experience greatly.

The fish tacos were mine, the salad Sylvia's, and we shared the sweet potato fries. Luscious, and a great way to start our tour of the Valley.

I had no agenda for this visit, other than visiting with my dear friends (and the quest for beans), so we drove up the Silverado Trail and stopped here and there as the spirit moved us. We didn't do a bit of wine tasting, other than at Gustavo-Thrace, which was right across the street from the restaurant. Sylvia knew one of the owners, who pressed us to taste one of their reds. It was quite good. Gustavo was featured in the movie 'Bottle Shock', about the 1976 Paris tasting that really put Napa Valley wines on the map. This movie is really fun, if you get a chance to see it.

A highlight was a drive into and through Stag's Leap Winery, which always has been and remains closed to the public. Fortunately Sylvia has connections here, but nobody tried to stop us anyway. The place sits way off the road. I've driven through here once before with Sylvia, when they were renovating the place. This manor house is now used only for winery entertaining and special events, although the grand old stone winery is still in use. This is where the Cabernet Sauvignon that won its portion at the Paris Tasting was made. I would love to be able to walk around here, see the inside of the house and winery, but it was closed today. I'm happy just to see it.

Our next stop was Chateau Montelena in Calistoga, producer of the Chardonnay that won the Paris Tasting and also the focus of the movie. This has always been one of my favorite places, primarily because of Jade Lake, above. This beautiful lake with its lush plantings, its gazebos and islands and bridges and swans is so utterly peaceful, and particularly wonderful for picnics although they don't advertise it as such. Most people who visit the winery probably don't even see it, as it sits behind the place and is fairly well screened by greenery. We headed straight here, didn't even go inside the winery!